Ghosts of the Dunes

Hiking the vast Silver Lake State Park dunes, we encountered so many interesting things, and ghost trees were among them. Located about half way through our journey to Lake Michigan, the remains of a small stand of trees came into view.  Probably buried in sand hundreds of years ago, they've been uncovered again by the same force that buried them.



Upon close investigation, the remains are filled with interesting texture, probably created by insects, animals, and the fact they were underground for so long. One of the taller ghost trees served multiple purposes for us during our hike.  It was like a sign post, or milemarker, since we could see it from a long distance away.  And when Chris climbed up, he managed to get a great view of what was ahead for us.



The expanse of dunes was unlike any we've visited along the shores of Lake Michigan. To give an idea of the size of the place, the photo above shows two hikers in the distance.  At the center of the image, on the horizon, is a small dot.  This dot is actually two hikers, and the photo below shows them up close. In this image, we were almost half way to Lake Michigan, looking back to the trailhead and parking area.  These hikers are about half way between us and the parking area.



Certainly a great place to hike in a dune landscape.

From the Dune Ridge

Looking a bit like a miniature view of the western United States, the view from the dune ridge was quite different than the surrounding areas.  That was the theme of this day's hike, take a few steps in any direction, and the environment changed.  While the majority of the dunes at Silver Lake State Park were vast and barren, there were countless areas where the vegetation differed dramatically from any we've encountered previously on the hike.



Steps out of the conifer stand on our way up the dune ridge, we found ourselves in what appeared to be the dry western US. Low growing evergreens and old trees dotted the dune landscape. Somewhat of another micro environment, where certain plants take hold due to conditions just right for them.  A few meters over the ridge, and the conditions no longer suit the needs of the plant, and it doesn't survive.



Once to the top of the ridge, we could look down at one of the interdunal ponds we passed on our hike. Water from rain and snow filters its way through the surrounding dunes and collects here in these low areas between dunes.  Most ponds harbor plenty of life including grasses, trees, and shrubs, providing places for small animals to live and hunt. We encountered signs of deer and plenty of water birds on this cold morning.



The top of the dune offered great views of the pond below and the surrounding area. We paused to take in the view, and to plan the next part of the hike.  We also took note of a distant dune ridge that appeared to pass right through another conifer stand - that would be our target for our return trip after we reached Lake Michigan.

Peaceful Pond

A half mile or so into our hike across the barren dunes of Silver Lake State Park, we encountered one of many stands of conifers. Situated in a dune valley, the stand was an island of green surrounded by empty sand- an oasis. Dense stands of Jack pine and grasses made our hike a little more difficult, a stark contrast to the rolling sand dunes just a few yards away.



These valleys harbor water and vegetation, creating micro environments within the park. We came upon several interdunal ponds (ponds between dunes) with clear evidence of deer and other wildlife. A sleeping area for deer was the perfect spot for a view of the pond, which was greening up from a long winter.



Seen from a dune ridge, the conifer stand and interdunal ponds appear as an island within the vast expanse of the dunes.One encounters so many different types of environments on a hike here. The landscape often appears so different than Michigan.

We were almost half way from the trail head to Lake Michigan at this point, with much more to see.

Hiking Silver Lake State Park

Our hike began at Silver Lake with a view of the expansive dunes between us and Lake Michigan.  The dunes make a beautiful backdrop to Silver Lake, and Lake Michigan is just about a mile over the dunes.

We climbed up the first living dune and found plenty of dead trees - buried by the shifting sands as they move inland driven by winds.  We were amazed at the size of this place, nothing but rolling sand dune for miles left and right, and at least a mile in front of us.  Dotting the dunes were small interdunal ponds and areas of conifer forest, just waiting for exploration.



One could barely see Lake Michigan on the horizon from out vantage point, but it appeared every so often as we climbed the taller dunes. We spent hours exploring the small ponds and forested areas on our way to the lake.



Here, we were almost half way to Lake Michigan. Just after exploring a frozen pond, we looked back to see how far we walked.  Silver Lake was beyond the farthest dune, and most features we encountered were now tiny dots on the landscape.

Enduring Another Cold, Windy Day

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Standing guard since 1874 over Little Sable Point, the 108 foot tall lighthouse endures punishing winds and frigid temperatures each winter.  This day was no exception, as the winds exceeded 30 miles per hour. Temperatures weren't sub zero, but cold enough to produce an April snow storm.  The snow remained for much of the day, regardless of the bright sunshine.

Located just south of Silver Lake State Park, in Mears, Michigan, the lighthouse attracts visitors year-round.  The lighthouse is open to the public from the end of May to the end of September, and visitors are allowed to climb to the lantern room for a very small fee of $5.  We arrived in the early evening, after a full day of exploring the seemingly endless dunes of Silver Lake State Park.



Exploring the dunes and lighthouse in early spring has some advantages, no crowds.  In our five hours of hiking the dunes, we saw only 2 people in the distance.  Three visitors shared the lighthouse grounds with us.

It's been a couple of years since we last visited, so we'll certainly need to come back to climb the 130 steps to the top of the lighthouse, the views of the lake and dunes are spectacular.

Waiting for the Sunset

Just one day after temperatures in the low 40s, and alternating sun then blizzard conditions every 15 minutes or so (no kidding), the weather turned warm, and sunny.  We made a last minute trip to the Lake Michigan shore for the first warm sunset of the year, and found ourselves on Porter Beach, part of the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore.

The setting sun bathed the sandy dunes in golden light, as visitors sat waiting for the sunset. Small groups of people were scattered about the dunes, each finding a place to sit and watch the horizon and the other people on the beach.

Moments later, clouds took over the sky, obscuring the sunset, as scattered rain showers approached.

Converging Landscapes

Back up to the summit from the beach, we came upon an area of the dunes where a few landscapes converged. The sandy, grassy dunes met with the wooded dune and both met with the wetlands and lake in the distance. The landscape converged at many different angles, all seeming to meet in this area.



The path down toward the woods was loose and steep, but if you run, taking big steps, you get down very quickly. This is not the place you want to fall while holding a camera; cameras don't take to  sand very well.



Once down, we continued our hike through the rolling dunes. The marram grass was still matted down by the winter snows, but there were signs it was greening up. Or, was the grass matted down by the black bear spotted in the park over the last few weeks? Black bears have not been seen in this area since the 1870's, but late last year and this spring, one has been on the prowl in the park and nearby neighborhoods. Perhaps he just came out of dormancy and was watching our every move as we hiked the meandering trails of Grand Mere State Park.

The View from the Summit

The last few meters of our hike were the most challenging. The loose sand toward the top of the dune was a bit difficult to climb - with each step, we sank into the sand, and slid backwards a little. The angle of the dune also became steeper toward the top.

Once we reached the top, we turned south to view the landscape toward the center of Michigan. Up this high, we were above the treetops and could see for miles around us.



We had a perfect view of South Lake, one of the small lakes within the park.  From this distance we could see several swans on the water, and plenty of other water foul.  I suspect in a few weeks, many migratory birds may call this area home.

Turning around toward the stiff wind off of Lake Michigan, we finally saw why this wooded dune had a bare sand summit- we were at the living edge of a blowout.  A blowout is a portion of the dune that is devoid of vegetation, and because of this, erodes by the wind.  The sand is blown to the top of the dune, where it falls on the leeward side, burying everything in its path. Here, the sand covered the fallen leaves and small trees near the summit.



A cold Lake Michigan came into view, along with the maze of smaller fore dunes. We hiked down to the beach and discovered a large amount of objects washed up by the series of storms in the area. Trees, wood from docks, and parts of boats littered the beach. Nothing unusual following a wind winter on the Great Lakes,

Our hike continued inland.

Eyeing the Summit

While hiking the meandering paths of the dunes at Grand Mere State Park, Chris noticed the sandy summit of a distant, wooded dune. Bare sand seems unusual on the top of a wooded dune, so he decided we should attempt to find a way up.

What appears to be a few meters away, is almost always a long trek - especially when we want to keep on the trails and not walk across the marram grass.  We followed the winding paths over several dunes until we managed to get closer to the foot of the dune we identified as having the sandy summit.



Following the trail through the wooded dune valley, we spotted a steep trail up to the top of the dune. Having never been on this trail before, we pondered the reason for the sandy summit. Was it a blowout? A living dune? Or was it something created by visitors or the park service?



Only a few more steps up the loose, sandy trail will reveal what's on top, and beyond.

A Hike to Lake Michigan

On a gloomy, early spring morning, we set off to hike to Lake Michigan through the trails of  Grand Mere State Park. From the parking area, the trail is flat and paved - not the kind of tail I enjoy. I prefer something more natural and rugged, but in this case, I assumed the pavement would lead to natural trails.  After about a half mile, the pavement ended with a climb up a loose sand dune into the landscape seen in these photos.



Always mindful of trampling Marram grass and other plants, we stayed on the beaten paths that meandered up and around the dunes. The views from the dune ridges were beautiful in most every direction - Lake Michigan, wooded dunes, grassy dunes, and the three, small inland lakes.

Similar to Warren Dunes, once over the first ridge, and expansive area of rolling dunes is all one can see, giving hikers a real sense of hiking far away from busy cities.

Grand Mere State Park is located in Stevensville, Michigan, only a few miles from St. Joseph. A recreation passport is required to access the park, although in busy times, visitors can pay an attendent for one day access.

Hiking Gypsy Gulch

Turkey Run State Park's trail 2 is a one mile, rugged hike that meanders around cliff faces, over hills, and through canyons. One of the more interesting parts of the trail is Gypsy Gulch, a path filled with boulders that have broken away from the cliff walls. Morning fog partially obscured the view of Sugar Creek, seen through the trees in the photo above.

While not necessarily a strenuous trail, it is rugged, forcing hikers to climb over and around boulders to continue on.  A small waterfall drips in Gypsy Gulch, and hikers must walk behind it, under the overhanging rock walls.



The old growth trees in this park are beautiful, even in late winter. The Hemlock remain green all year, and are found in the damp canyons of trail 3, but the largest are the Yellow Poplar, also called  Tulip Trees. These straight, tall trees reach a height of 100 feet, with no branches on the bottom 60 feet. Seen in the background in the photo below, the Yellow Poplar towers above the trail, It appears huge even though it's a hundred feet away from the hiker.



Trail 2 merges with trail 1, which leads to one of Parke County's historic covered bridges, the Narrows Covered Bridge.

Wedge Rock

Rugged trail number 3 at Turkey Run State Park in west-central Indiana, is home to a rock formation known as Wedge Rock.  While not really a formation, the feature is the result of a rock fall centuries ago, where this rock refused to roll flat, and remained in this upright position.  The angle is gentle enough to allow safe climbing to the top for a great view of the canyon.



Beneath Wedge Rock, hikers get an idea of just how large this rock is, and a sense of how powerful the event that shook it loose from the canyon wall must have been. The small stream running through the canyon no doubt had some effect on the fall.



Over time, trees have taken root on the rocky surface. With no soil to speak of, the roots have fastened themselves to the small cracks in the rock, and wandered around to the moist ground below. The trees in this particular part of the canyon are coniferous, and with the neon green moss covering most surfaces, it feels more like a hike in the Pacific Northwest.



The backside of Wedge Rock is another interesting place to explore. Lines in the rock seem to have been scoured in, yet are most likely the result of the formation of the rock itself. Fitting to the name of the wedge-shaped rock, hikers must wedge themselves through the small gap between the rocks to explore the backside of this portion of trail 3.

Entering Ancient Indiana

About 60 miles west of Indianapolis, Indiana lies scenic Parke County, home to over 30 covered bridges, and plenty of rolling country.  In the midst of this county is Turkey Run State Park, a natural preserve where visitors can experience Indiana's ancient landscape.

Several canyons dot the park, some with waterfalls, others filled with boulders and trees. One trail in particular, trail 3, brings visitors into a canyon where nature's forces worked over 300 million years to shape what is seen today.  This trail, marked "very rugged" by the park service, is just that, a rugged walk through the canyon.  While not too strenuous, the rugged nature of the trail allows visitors to hike in a more natural setting.  Boardwalks and stairs are in places where necessary, and wooden ladders are necessary to scale portions of the canyons.

Just outside of the narrow entrance to the canyon, along Sugar Creek, the temperature drops substantially.  The colder air of the canyon is well below the temperature of the surrounding area; we could see our breath, and the outside temperature was in the mid 60s.



In addition to the cold air, we also noticed the plant life was instantly different.  The park has plenty of old growth trees, some of the tallest I've seen in the region, but the trees here were all old conifers.  Thick, green moss covered the rocks, and fallen trees, while ferns clung to the canyon walls.  Much different than most other parts of the park.

Our six hour hike brought us through most of the canyons, but some fading sunlight forced us to postpone the rest for another day.

The Sap is Running

Each spring, The Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore presents an event highlighting the maple sugar production methods of the region. Maple Sugar Days runs the first two weekends of March at the Chellberg Farm, part of the National Lakeshore.

Rangers and volunteers demonstrate the traditional methods of maple syrup collection and production, ranging from the Native American methods to relatively modern methods used on the farm back in the 1930's.

With the warm weather we've experienced, the sap was flowing - slowly dripping from the spiles into the covered buckets. The sap needs the warm days and freezing nights to begin to move up the tree, and the spiles channel the sap from the small hole drilled in the tree, to the buckets. This process only lasts a few weeks. Once the weather is warm enough, the tree begins to gain nourishment from photosynthesis instead of the sap, and the sap becomes bitter.



The covers on the buckets keep snow and water from getting into the collected sap, as well as critters that may wander into the bucket for a drink.

Once collected, the sap is taken to the sugar shack where it is boiled down into syrup.

Above the Beach

With so many unusual stretches of warm weather this winter, the shelf ice on Lake Michigan never developed as vast as usual.  However, some did form, and with the recent days of temperatures reaching 60 degrees, it's disappearing fast.  The break up of the ice is interesting to watch, as each waves batters the mounds of ice until one breaks. This allows the waves to reach the flat ice between the mounds, and they begin to crack and tear apart. These pieces of ice bump into one another constantly, and eventually become round in shape; these formations are called pancake ice.

Our hike brought us to a high elevation on private land, where we could view the lakefront and the ice from above. The extent of the shelf ice, while not as large as most years, is better seen from above. In addition, many textures and patterns are evident from this height, but not from the beach. With no other people around, there is little on the beach to give the images scale, but the mounds of ice were between 15 and 20 feet off of the water.

As we walked on our return trip, the ice was breaking up even faster than before, and more and more pancake ice was forming along the shore, perhaps to become incorporated in the next round of shelf ice should the weather turn cold again.

Remnants of Winter

With many of the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore beach access points closed due to "Emergency Conditions" as they put it, the areas which traditionally have the best looking shelf ice are difficult to view.  Determined to see the ice before it completely melted, we hiked along the waters edge from Lakeview Beach to Kintzele Ditch - a 3.5 mile hike each way. Even though beach access is closed, the water's edge is part of the public trust zone, hence the public cannot be denied access. For the same reason, property owners along the beach cannot chase away the public from the water's edge.

The 57 degree temperatures and bright sun made this February hike enjoyable. There was plenty of shelf ice left, and many pieces were isolated in the water like islands, no longer attached to the shore by ice.  The waves moved in and removed the smaller, floating pieces of ice, leaving the huge mounds to withstand the pounding waves.

Looking more like a scene from the arctic, the Lake Michigan shore was once again transforming before our eyes.

Exploring Kaskaskia Canyon

As we approached the end of Kaskasia Canyon, we heard voices of some other visitors along with the sound of falling water.  Not surprising, since Kaskaskia Canyon is home to two waterfalls, one substantial and one generally just a trickle. The waterfall was completely frozen over, yet the water ran inside a naturally occuring ice "pipe," created by the falling water and freezing temperatures.

Hearing water inside a frozen waterfall is very common where the flow of water is substantial, but most of the time the water is flowing between the rock wall and the surface ice.  This time, the falling water was encased in ice all the way to the canyon floor.



The two logs that lay in the canyon probably assisted in creating the ice "pipe" as the water followed the logs for a bit, before freezing as it fell to the ground. The logs and ice blocked off most of the canyon overhang, creating a small cave.  Unfortunately, the falling water was not flowing down the canyon, but puddling about 8 inches deep inside the cave, making exploration wet and uncomfortable.  Not to mention the fact that we didn't know the depth of the water under the ice, so venturing inside could have resulted in a fall through the ice into relatively deep water at the foot of a waterfall.



The voices we heard in the canyon belonged to two adventurers, climbing the taller of the two waterfalls. Armed with climbing gear, crampons, and ice axes, the climber made his way up the icy waterfall, resting periodically as necessary.

The cold plays a role in tiring out ice climbers.  Keeping one's hands overhead for such a long time can be difficult while climbing, but add to that the fact that warm blood cannot replenish the arms as easily when they're overhead, so the hands become numb and difficult to use.



Disappointed I didn't have my own ice climbing gear, I left the canyon in search of more frozen waterfalls.

Frozen Ottawa Canyon

Our search for frozen waterfalls brought us to another of Starved Rock State Park's canyons, Ottawa Canyon.  Located just past the Council Overhang, Ottawa Canyon is a blind canyon with a generally low flowing waterfall of approximately 50 feet in height.  The low flow portion of this waterfall is evident in the giant icicle pictured below.  The ice formation is at least 40 feet long.



It stretches from the rim of the canyon to a point 4 inches short of the floor (by now it might have reached the floor).  If the water was more plentiful, the ice would have built up from the bottom as well, because the water would fall, freeze, and pile upward.  We see this in most every other waterfall in these canyons.



The main portion of the icefall in Ottawa Canyon is more typically formed. Ice hanging from the rim, and ice building from the floor until the two meet. This canyon is such that visitors can easily walk around the icefall, and see the formation from all angles. The size of the column of ice is impressive.



Other interesting features of this canyon include the horizontal bands of color in the rock.  This provides a great contrast to the vertical ice formations. When sunlit, the dark bands take on a warm hue against the bands of cooler colored rock.



The difference between the two types of ice formations can be easily compared in the photo above. One built from the top down and bottom up, the other, built only from above. We made certain we stayed far away from the hanging formation- figuring it was much more unstable than the others, and could prove fatal if it crumbled onto us.

Backlit Falls

We were rewarded by some great frozen waterfalls on our return hike to LaSalle Canyon following a week of cold weather. What melted away a week ago, has returned even better than before. The ice growing from the top of the overhang has connected to the ice building up from the canyon floor to create a curtain of ice.

The daylight shines through the ice curtain, illuminating the canyon walls with colors from the sky, rock walls, and minerals suspended in the ice. Ever changing, these curtains continue to grow until the weather warms, and freeze again once the temperatures drop. The intricate patterns on the columns of ice and the canyon floor also grow and change, and get more intricate every day with the addition of more and more ice.



Aside from the light filtering through, one of the most interesting things about the ice is the scale of the frozen waterfalls.  Even the small frozen falls are impressive, but when the ice grows to 40, 60, or even 80 feet to the canyon floor below, it's difficult to imagine the size unless you visit the canyon for yourself.

As the water falls from above, it collects on the canyon floor and begins to grow upward, in an ice mound.  The hanging ice eventually touches the growing mound to produce a solid column. The width of these columns can be over 20 feet in diameter, making the impressive icefall desirable for ice climbing.