The Growing Ice on Lake Michigan

 

A sunny morning for a long hike up the dunes to see the progress of the ice forming on Lake Michigan. From this point, you can see miles into the lake - well, actually in every direction because it's the highest point in the area. The view from the beach is often obstructed in winter, by the piles of shelf ice, so a gain in elevation is necessary to see the lake. 

The hike is half the fun, but watching the lake slowly reveal itself as you get higher and closer to the ridge of the dune is stunning. And this sunny morning was no exception. Bitter cold temperature and a stiff wind certainly wakes you up, but moments later when you head down the dune, the wind is blocked and you actually warm up quickly. I almost always need to open my coat or remove an outer coat on my return hike.

   

 Winter is a great time to see how the dunes were built, there are no leaves on the trees, and the snow highlights the topography, so the dunes can be seen clearly. 

It still amazes me that there were houses and a beach access with a road and parking are just to the left of the photo above. I remember a few of the homes, and walked the roads several times. Now, the roads are covered by sand and weeds. I hope the park service begins the process of marking these trails soon, they're asphalt, so nobody is going to hurt anything by walking on them.

   

From the highest point, there are terraces made out of old pipes, steel sheets, and cinder blocks, most likely someone's attempt to make the climb a bit easier when there were homes in this area. This would be a fantastic area for a trail up - even if the park service had to build a deck and stairway up to prevent people from walking all over the plant life. If constructed correctly, it wouldn't detract from the natural surroundings, and without a parking lot right at the foot of the area, people would need to walk quite a distance just to find the area. It's a win - win in my opinion.

Deep in French Canyon

 

"Nobody can get into French Canyon in winter" said the park employee a few years ago. In fact, sometimes they have a sign at the entrance to the canyon informing visitors of the dangerous conditions that lie ahead, and recommending not to enter. I will admit, sometimes it is very difficult even while wearing ice cleats, but I've never turned back. 

This winter, it was relatively easy to walk up the slanted creek bed, I didn't need to place one foot on the right side of the canyon wall, and the other on the left canyon wall. And the variety of other visitors proved this as well. 

The waterfall at the end of the canyon has looked more interesting in the past, but this year it's quite iced up and full. Not a free-falling waterfall, this one cascades along the canyon wall, kind of like ice running down stairs. It is very impressive, especially when you look up inside this deep, narrow canyon. I used a wide lens to capture the waterfall and portions of the canyon and sky above.

   

Here the path into the canyon can be seen. The small waterfall in the center leads to a relatively deep pool, and would be the place a person would wind up if they slipped on the icy trail. Just past that portion where the trail narrows, is the are where generally you have to place your feet on either side of the creek - in summer you'll get wet, in winter you'll slip and fall. 

 Carefully navigating this slippery canyon can lead visitors into quite a remarkable environment.

KasKaskia's Frozen Waterfall

One of the smaller waterfalls and canyons of Starved Rock State Park is Kaskaskia. Located on a trail outside of the commonly visited area, it's grouped with two other interesting features of the park - Ottawa Canyon, and the Council Overhang. 

This trail is rather short, but packed with these three features all within a half mile, and it's one of the easiest to visit in winter. Of course, some of the trails are slippery, but it's generally not until you get next to or behind the frozen waterfalls that the ice becomes an issue. Admiring the falls from 20 or 30 feet away can be done safely by almost anyone. 

The trademark of this waterfall are the logs resting in the fall, they must have been deposited there by a flood, and have been there since I can remember. They offer a different look compared to most of the other waterfalls in the park, and tempt people to walk up the logs, but it's not as easy as it looks - especially in winter.

   

 I was told by a friend a few years back, that he fell through the ice here, at the base of the waterfall. He thought the ice was thick enough, but it was weak in just one spot. The pool of water here (according to him) is about four feet deep, plenty deep to get you soaked and very cold. I always test the ice before walking on it, especially if I don't see any footprints. The only way to access the cave behind the waterfall is to walk on the ice, so I always take caution. 

 Once behind the fall, the cave is about 20 feet in diameter, and about four feet tall, so not very large, but enough to see the ice illuminated by the light filtering through the canyon. This column of ice is rather thick, so there aren't too many interesting colors to view, but nevertheless, it's always fun to explore the back of an icefall.

   

 If anyone is interested in seeing some frozen waterfalls, but are concerned about icy trail conditions or long walks, this is the trail to explore. No steep inclines, not many stairs (maybe five or six), three interesting features with two very different icefalls, and a quick walk from the parking area.

The Ice Curtain

 

A smaller state park than Starved Rock, Matthiessen offers several frozen waterfalls to explore. One of my favorites is in a blind canyon just past Cedar Point. Visitors need to cross a creek to see this canyon, but in winter, it's usually frozen over, so it's easy. Last year it wasn't so easy. The creek was running high from melting snow and it wasn't frozen over, so we had to walk through knee-deep water in February. Funny how it was very cold at first, but after a half hour or so, we got used to the wet boots and it wasn't bad at all - until the last trail about 3 hours later when the cold began to reach our bones. 

 I mention this is one of my favorites because it's usually possible to venture behind the icefall. On this visit, the ice was almost blocking the path from right to left, but adventurous visitors could climb through the 16 inch opening to get into the cave. It's a bit difficult to do with camera gear!

   

There is one other icefall that's much easier to get into, but it's very small and the ice is quite thick, so the light does not penetrate through the ice quite so much. This ice curtain is approximately 25 feet wide, offering some fun exploration inside. 

The entrance to the ice cave is usually quite slippery, more so on the way down, and it's advisable to simply jump down the two or three feet to the canyon floor. Attempting to ease down seems to result in a slide down the rockface, or worse yet, a tumble onto the wet ice. This visitor found her way down the easy way.

 

Nothing hurt but pride, the visitors kept on hiking to see the other waterfall in the canyon, and probably the other four spread out in the park as well.

The Frozen Waterfall of Ottawa Canyon

 

 It's officially winter once the waterfalls of Starved Rock State Park freeze. We've had a couple of runs of very cold weather, and it only takes 32 degrees to begin freezing the trickling waterfalls of this part of the county.

 
Located in a blind canyon, the waterfall of Ottawa Canyon dramatically reveals itself as you walk down the canyon. This year was probably the most crowded I've ever experienced the canyons in winter. It was certainly a nice day for winter - temperatures in the 20's and sun - and it was a weekend. I generally visit these canyons on weekdays to avoid so many people, but it's really nice to see families visiting natural sites instead of looking at them on the internet.

   

I met a few visitors who said they were at the park for the very first time, while others mentioned it was their first winter visit. What a great day for this to be your first time at the park. All of the waterfalls were fully frozen, it wasn't too cold, and there were lots of people to ask questions if you were lost, and even take a family photo with your phone. 

 Ottawa canyon is one of the waterfalls you can walk behind in summer and winter. The ice cascades from an overhang, allowing plenty of room to explore the back of the falls. This fall is often the choice of climbers because it's an almost vertical shaft which is quite challenging to scale. We didn't see any climbers on this icefall today, but we did run into a few an another icefall.

 

This photo gives an idea of how much room there is behind the icefall. A few other falls allow you to walk behind, but in winter, the ice sometimes extends to the canyon wall making it difficult or impossible to walk behind. In many other cases, the ice hangs free from the canyon, and you wouldn't want to be anywhere beneath that in the event it lets go of the canyon wall and falls. Hundreds or even thousands of pounds of ice falling to the canyon floor would certainly cause serious damage. 

 Even though the weather has been cold for a while, I still don't trust walking on the ice around the falls. I do see plenty of footprints, so I can assume the ice can support the weight of people, but I have heard stories of people falling through the ice around some of these icefalls, and one in particular fell into a 4 foot deep pool. He said it was a long, cold walk back to the car, and a very uncomfortable drive home. 

Today I watched a couple walk down the center of the stream all the way out to the Illinois River where they kept walking for a bit. They were about 50 feet from the bank - I couldn't watch any longer, I hope they made it safely back to land. Falling through the ice in the creek is uncomfortable, falling through the river ice is a recovery - you fall through and the current takes you downstream with little hope of finding your way back to the small hole you fell through. 

 Plenty more photos to come from the trip to see seven frozen waterfalls.

The Cold beach

 

 Our visit to the beach on this day was typical of years past - not another person in view all morning. Many years ago, I would often be the only person walking on the beach on cold winter days, but a bit more recently, I would regularly encounter a few others exploring as well. The weather wasn't all that cold or windy, but the beaches were empty. Good! This is how I prefer it. 

 The shelf ice is slowly building along the beach, but because it was not too windy as it formed, it's not mounded up high along the shore, but rather flat as it extends into the lake. Walking here, I realized how easy it would be for someone to unknowingly keep walking onto the ice to the water's edge.

   

 Walking on the beach, you don't get a good idea of the shelf ice because you're line of sight is too low. Getting up a bit higher is always best so you can see above the ice and far into the lake. Mt. Baldy offers a great view of the shelf ice from about 100 feet above the beach, but sometimes all you need is a few feet of elevation to change your perspective. That's exactly what Dan is doing here when he climbed up this dead tree that washed up on shore.

The Dune Point

 

 In just a few days, shelf ice has begun to form along the shore of Lake Michigan. This year, the ice formed when the lake wasn't as rough, so the shelf ice didn't form large mounds along the beach. This makes it a bit more dangerous for visitors because the ice looks like the beach when you're walking along unless you look for some subtle clues. I can easily see how someone could just dash out all the way to the edge of the ice thinking they are safe - especially if they have never visited the area before. When the ice mounds up, it's a lot easier to tell where the beach ends and the ice begins. It still doesn't matter to some who are either unfamiliar with the danger, or just think they're bulletproof.

 
I suspect in a few more days the ice will form almost as far as the eye can see; it's so interesting to visit in the winter to see these changes. The lake looks more like the Arctic Ocean when it freezes up.

   

 From the higher elevations on the dunes, one can see the extent of the ice much easier. Viewing areas are very limited now that much of the dune areas are closed or off limits, but there are a few left such as Mt. Baldy, and Central Beach. You can always put your camera on a kite and fly it high above for photo, because drones are not allowed in the park. 

Some older trails lead harmlessly to some dune overlooks. Many old homes were razed over the past few years, and the sand and weed covered asphalt roads still exist. Most locals know these trails, visitors would never find them. 

 Along the stream you can see the trail leading off to the old roads. It would be a great thing for the park service to mark these and perhaps make a viewing deck in this area, but they've all but closed off the dunes. As I've believed for a long time, and today's approval to charge admission to the park proves, the park service wishes to put more effort into keeping the public out of the park than providing a natural experience for visitors.

Contemplating

 

Hiking with a camera is a lot different than just plain hiking. When I am with my camera, I'm looking around at the expanse of where I am for interesting views and angles. I am also looking at particular objects I encounter and their relationship to the landscape. And finally, I'm looking for small things that may normally get passed up if I was simply walking along. It's a constant scan - the whole, the large, and the tiny - over and over again. If you train your eye to do this as you're walking along, you don't miss much. In fact, you see far more than you ever thought you would. 

You really need to force your eye to look at things and places you would normally ignore, and not only will you find so many interesting things to photograph, you'll find so many more things to encounter and enjoy on your hike. 

With all that said, when you reach a special place in the landscape, get all the photos you want, but before leaving that area, STOP! Stop and take in everything you see, everything you hear, everything you smell, and everything you feel. It's amazing how just standing and staring out at Lake Michigan from atop a dune can make you feel. Forget all of the details around you and all of a sudden, you become part of the scene. You'll see, hear, and feel things you don't often encounter - small animals in the tall grass, singing birds, all sorts of things you don't hear if you keep walking, talking, and pulling out your phone. 

When we arrived at the top of the dune and followed the ridge trail, we stopped and just stood there soaking in the environment around us. At first we looked around for interesting things in the distance, but after a few moments, our eyes just glazed a bit as our minds began to take in everything around us. It really is magical.

   

Not only do you want to look at the "interesting" view, turn around, look at what's behind and around you, often it's better than what you're looking at! Walking just a few steps and stopping again, often brings a whole new experience once again. 

Remember to take a bit of time to remove yourself from your hike, your walk, or your relaxing rest on a bench. Take in what's around you, look at things again - for the first time as they say.

On the Tallest Dune

 

On our hike to the beach, we ended up following a well known trail from the old neighborhoods surrounding the park, up to what used to be a parking area. Now, this entire area is overgrown with marram grass and oak trees, so it's hard to imagine any cars could have driven right in this spot, but there are still remnants of signs and pieces of the old homes. 

 Out a bit from the parking area and former homes is the tallest dune in the area. There are old pipes and sheet metal terraces leading up to this point, at one time, it must have been someone's yard - what an incredible view! From this point, you can see all the way past Michigan City into Michigan. The Michigan City lighthouse can be seen close to the horizon, near the Nipsco Power Plant (which is scheduled to be razed in a few years).

   

 Looking in the opposite direction from the same dune, you can see Chicago's skyline on clear days, and if you look closely, even the buildings and industry all along the horizon. This is a relatively quiet area, but looking at the footprints in the fresh snow, we weren't the only visitors on this morning. 

The tails lead in and out of the old parking area and former homes to a couple of wide, winding trails that were once roads. Every so often you can see the asphalt - but again, it's been so long since these were driven on, it's hard to imagine a car fitting down these trails. 

 Walking through this area, I can't imagine how great it must have been to own one of these properties. Incredible location, beautiful views, and deer for neighbors.

Central Beach in Early Winter

If you don't like crowds, then visit the beach in winter! Seriously, Lake Michigan beaches are all but abandoned in the cold weather, and that's exactly the time I love to explore them. One great benefit is the lack of people, there simply aren't many, which makes exploration perfect. No need to worry about stepping on some kid's sandcastle, someone's towel, or having an umbrella or tent in the middle of your view. Better yet, the scenery is totally different than summer, the beach takes on a whole different attitude. 

The cold and wind certainly make things more interesting during the visit, but they also provide endless unique things to explore. This was relatively early in the winter, so ice is just forming, but Lake Michigan has still managed to toss up a bunch of ice boulders onto the beach. Chunks of ice float around in the water until they are tossed up on the beach. Wave after wave pushes and pulls the chunks until they finally end up high enough on land to stay put. This constant action rounds the edges of the ice, making them look a lot like boulders that have been in rivers or glaciers. These will eventually pile up 15 feet tall or more along the shore.

 

While the ice chunks are still close to the waves, the water splashes and pours over them, adding more drama to the formations. Looking closely, layer upon layer of ice and sand can be seen on them, and in some cases long icicles form where the water runs down the ice. 

This area is a bit difficult to walk on, because the crashing waves create very smooth ice on the beach. Generally, you won't slide too far because there are so many ice boulders, you'll eventually slide into one. But, walking on any ice between the boulders and the water is not advised. The shoreline is always angled toward the lake, when the sand freezes, the ice is very smooth and slick. It's possible, to walk onto this slick spot and slide all the way to the cold lake water, where it would be very difficult to walk out because the ice is so very slippery. Enjoy nature at a safe distance.

Ice Formations Along the Shore

The cold weather begins to build up some shelf ice along the shore of Lake Michigan. At this early stage, the ice has not yet formed a shelf, and is completely attached to the land, so it's still safe to explore. In a few days, it will begin to form over the water, and that will be dangerous to venture onto. When the waves begin to mound up the floe ice and ice chunks floating in the lake, the shelf ice will begin to pile up into mounds reaching 15 or 20 feet high. Before that, the ice now forms intricate shapes as the water flows back and forth on the beach. The formations created look a lot like stalactites and stalagmites in caves. I suppose both features are created in a similar manner, only the ice is fast and seasonal, while the limestone formations take thousands of years to form. In this small formation, almost every layer can be seen from the ground up, almost like a topographical map. These same layers can be seen all around the shore at this time, but will eventually be covered in large chunks of ice and snow. Only time will tell if the shelf ice builds hundreds of feet out into the lake, or if it will remain as is for the rest of the winter.

Haunting Ice

What was a bright, sunny day as we arrived at the St. Joseph, Michigan lighthouse, turned to an overcast winter day quite quickly, and dramatically. In fact, the fleeting transition between sun and clouds lasted only a moment or two. An overcast day generally provides very flat light, no real bright spots, no dramatic shadows. Compare that to a sunny day where the dynamic range in light is extreme from sun to shadow. When the clouds rolled in, they blocked most of the sun quickly, but the last few rays of sun illuminated the ice against the dark clouds and water. This created a dramatic, haunting look and feel to this image.

Ice Around the Pier

Early winter creates some sculpted ice on the shore of Lake Michigan where the water splashed up on every nearby surface and froze. Every blade of grass, every branch, and every railing is covered in a thick coat of ice. 

I arrived expecting much more ice on the lighthouse itself, but there is very little compared to most years - at least so far. There was quite a bit on the pier and the plants close to the river, where the waves push up and overflow the banks.

On arrival, it was clear with full sun, but after a few minutes the clouds rolled in, changing the look of everything very quickly. The long icicles hanging from the catwalk were still illuminated by the sun, and stood out against the darker sky. The transition between sun and clouds can be seen in the image above. 

That cloud mass brought with it some freezing rain which covered the roadways with a thin sheet of ice. Our one day trip turned into two as we decided to stay the night instead of attempting the drive all the way home.

The "Hoodoos" of St. Joseph Michigan

 

Like miniature versions of the sandstone formations of the Badlands and Brice Canyon, Utah, these formations look a lot like "Hoodoos." These particular formations, however, are only temporary features of the Lake Michigan shore. 

Winter does some incredible things to the beaches along the shore of the Great Lakes, but in addition to the ice and snow, small details often get overlooked. When water falls on sand, it seeps down to the layers below; in cold weather, the water turns to ice. Along the beaches, winds hit the shore and slowly move sand away from the lake, but the frozen portions don't wear away, they remain. These remaining formations are incredible little sculptures I call Hoodoos.

 

I've seen these formations for years in other places. Usually, they are formed when wind mixes the snow with sand, and the snow begins to melt, then freezes again. I found hundreds of these in Silver Lake, Michigan in 2017, and blogged about them in my Huffington Post blog: Click here to view that post. The ones in St. Joseph, Michigan this year are much smaller, and confined to a rather small section of the beach, but they are a bit more consistent in style.

 

I was surprised to see quite a few kids and families were exploring the Hoodoos in the bitter cold wind. In years past, I was often the only person on the beach in the winter; it's good to see people getting out to explore and come across things they never imagined, like the interesting Hoodoos of St. Joseph, Michigan.

The Ice is Beginning to Form

The new year brought some frigid weather to the southern Lake Michigan area, enough to begin the creation of some thick ice on the pier and catwalk of the St. Joseph, Michigan lighthouse. Typically, the ice begins to form much earlier in the season - sometimes in late November - but this winter, conditions weren't right until now.

Conditions include very cold temperatures, winds high enough to churn up waves that crash into the pier and lighthouse, and a liquid lake (not frozen yet) so waves can build up. A layer of ice on the lake prevents the water from splashing up, so later in the winter when the lake usually freezes over, ice rarely builds on the lighthouses.

While the ice hasn't yet covered the lighthouse, it is beginning to freeze the surfaces of the pier, railings, and catwalk. The ice on the railings is already about two feet thick may continue to build depending on how conditions are in the future.

Many years ago, winters along the Lake Michigan shoreline were generally lonely, very few people ventured to view the lighthouses or ice along the shore. In recent years, however, crowds of people brave the cold weather to experience the ice formations. As long as the everyone keeps off the ice, it's a great thing to see. 

Autumn Hike on the Boardwalk

This Fall season was relatively warm and dry, so the thought was that the leaves would drop early and without much color. As it turns out, the color was great, it was just delayed a few weeks. Visiting the Chellberg Farm trails at the Indiana Dunes National Park has become a tradition in the Fall, and it never disappoints. This area has scores of maple and beech trees that turn golden in autumn, and the rolling landscape provides the perfect setting for a hike. Boardwalks and stairs provide relatively easy access through the deep gullys of this area. Even in the rain, hikers can enjoy the landscape without too much mud or overflow of streams. On the day of this hike the parking area was overflowing with cars, and the remote lot was being used. Surprisingly, these trails were almost empty; I wonder if visiters only knew about the short trail near the sugar shack and behind the farmhouse. Venturing past the barns and field, one finds the trail that wanders through these rolling, wooded dunes. There are a few trails that total about four miles (maybe more if you wander off toward other parts of the park), but this trail is about a mile loop. It's well worth exploring any time of year, but especially in the Fall.

Autumn Gold

Walking through the sugar bush in autumn is amazing. The sugar bush is another term for a wooded area filled with maple trees used for maple sugar, and maple trees are known for their beautiful Fall color. One of my favorite places to explore in autumn is this particular sugar bush at the Chelberg Farm in northwest Indiana. The farm is part of the Indiana Dunes National Park, and a huge contrast to the beaches and lakeshore most people think of when they hear about the dunes.

These hills are dunes, long ago deposited by the wind and waves of a then much larger Lake Michigan. Over time, the grasses gave way to trees and the falling leaves helped create a more fertile soil to support more types of trees. The trees in this area were most likely planted by the early farming people like the Chelbergs to produce maple syrup. 

The sugar shack can be seen at the top left of the image. This is where the maple sap was boiled until a good portion of the water evaporated, creating maple syrup. Tours of the sugar shack are given every March during the prime sap collection time.

Hiking the winding, hilly trails of the sugar bush is absolutely beautiful in the Fall. This area has to be the most colorful of the entire park, and certainly worth the visit.

The Great Marsh

 

There is plenty more to the Indiana Dunes National Park than dunes and Lake Michigan. The largest interdunal watershed in the Lake Michigan area is located here. Called the Great Marsh, this area was once drained to make way for homes and agriculture. In 1998, this area was restored by the park service back to it's original state of a wetland. 

 Visiting the park for many years, I have noticed the trees in the marsh have all but disappeared. Not knowing the story of the area, I figured the wetlands were drained many years ago, and more recently, the area was left to come back to being a marsh. The area flooded again, and the trees that were once growing in dry soil, have since died and are slowly decaying into the swampy area.

   

 From the dune ridge trail at Kemil Beach, a portion of the marsh can be seen. I've hiked this trail numerous time and always wanted to walk through the marsh below. For some reason, I failed to realize that the closed portion of Beverly Drive passed through this exact area - it was not easily seen from above. When I realized this, I immediately walked down to the road and followed it through the wetland. 

The road has been closed for at least five years, and in that time nature has begun to reclaim the surface. It makes a great trail for people walking, running, and biking, even though it's not a natural trail. There are a few small channels under the road that connect the two sides of the interdunal wetland, and small wood bridges spanning them to make them passable.

   

 I'm not certain what will become of this road - will the park make it a designated trail, or attempt to keep people away from it? For now, it seems to be a popular trail for locals who know the area, and the in's and out's of the old road system.

Developing Storms

While kayaking at sunset, we watched two storms develop in the distance. The first was to the south, and the whispy clouds caught our attention at first. They soon developed into billowing clouds highlighted by the setting sun. After the sun sank below the horizon, the lake and trees darkened, but the storm clouds remained vibrant for quite some time. Lightning could be seen between the clouds, but the storm never came any closer to us. This image was made with four individual photos stitched together side by side. I only had a 100mm lens with me, so a panoramic image was necessary to capture the entire cloud. At the very same time, to the east was an even larger storm developing. Again it was highlighted by the setting sun and never approached us, we remained dry the entire weekend. This panoramic image was created with eight separate images taken with a 100mm lens while sitting in a kayak on the lake. Paddling any time during the day is great, but paddling at sunset and after dark is especially interesting. Our 11pm trips are always inspiring.

Superior Mirage

 

 While hiking on some dunes near the shore of Lake Michigan, I captured the Michigan City East Pierhead lighthouse from the Central Beach area, a bit more than 2 miles away. The land on the horizon to the left of the lighthouse is over 30 miles in the distance, and generally cannot be seen from this vantage point. Thanks to Google Earth, I determined the land in the center of the image is actually north of Bridgeman, Michigan!

When conditions are perfect, a superior mirage forms, making the land past the curvature of the earth visible, but upside-down. While this mirage was not as perfect as I've seen them, a portion of the land closest to the water is upside-down. In the past, I've seen the entire object in the distance upside-down - including all of the buildings in the Chicago skyline. 

 Because of the optics of a superior mirage, objects that are normally past our view can be seen hovering over the water, forcing plenty of double-takes by visitors to the beach.